Ive got a relatively new pair of heads off my Syncro.  We put them on the
original engine, but it did not solve the problem.  We ended up putting a
Rebuilt in it – So we have this Pair of heads with about 5000 Mi on them.
Email if you are interested

Kevin McGrath wrote:

> I was wondering if there is a mailing list perhaps on Porsche 914′s
> I am considering buying one possibly. I don’t have any info on the
> cars though. I would love to hear any impressions both good and bad
> on the car.

Hi…

Your best bet would be to join the Porschephiles mailing list. Drop a
subscribe note in to ‘porschephiles-requ…@tta.com’ – subscriptions
are handled manually, so don’t get too worried if it takes a while.

You should also check out the Porschephiles web page – it has a 914 specific
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions), including a fair bit of technical detail.
Look at:

http://tta.com/Porschephiles/home.html

I’ll answer some of your questions here – check out the Porschephiles page
for more info. People on the mailing list can give you a better idea as
to pricing, etc. The big thing you will hear over and over is if you’re
interested in a particular car, get it checked out by a qualified Porsche
mechanic – the cost of this will be miniscule compared to making a mistake
and buying a clunker!

> WHat engines did they come with?

Depending on the year, either a 1.7, 1.8, or 2.0 litre 4 cylinder. There were
a couple of years that Porsche produced the car with a 2.0 litre 6 cylinder,
but these cars are fairly rare. There are many cars that have been converted
to later Porsche 6 engines – if you’re looking to one of these, be careful
that everything was done right. Also check that the fuel injection is intact…
conversions to carbs were somewhat popular but resulted in a loss of power
and were usually only done when the owner (or mechanic) couldn’t figure out
how to properly adjust the FI.

> What years were they produced?

1.7l 4 cyl – between 1969 and 1973
1.8l 4 cyl – between 1974 and 1975
2.0l 4 cyl – between 1973 and 1976
2.0l 6 cyl – between 1969 and 1972 (?)

The cars all had the same body (except for very rare variants) which is
a targa top. There are no true convertibles.

The price you will have to pay will depend a great deal on the condition of
the car and which engine (and year) you have. The most desirable are the
6 cylinder variants. Next are the 1973 and 1974 2.0l (these years were the
lightest of the 2.0l cars and included a sport and appearance group option
set as standard).

Be VERY careful to check the car out for rust – these cars were built in
the days before Porsche galvanized their bodies. Check out the Porschephiles
home pages for details as to WHERE to check…

Good luck! I used to own a ’73 2.0l which I loved to death and unfortunately
had to sell…. snifff….

The car was (still is) a fantastic vehicle. Noisy and slightly uncomfortable
by today’s standards, and not a vehicle to be driving in snow, etc (don’t
know where you live – this may not be a factor!), but a wonderful all-round
sports car apart from that.

Ross
—
Ross Parker             |
Hughes Aircraft Ltd.    | "Lisp has all the visual appeal of oatmeal
Richmond, B.C., Canada  |     with fingernail clippings mixed in"
rp…@dev.hcsd.hac.ca   |                 (Larry Wall)

Just installed some rebuilt 10.1 calipers & new rotors on the ‘ol Fox
last night.  Can’t believe how expensive the caliper rebuild parts are
(only a seal & dustboot).   Anyhow, everything bolted up nicely &
seems to be working fine but I haven’t really tested them until I give
it some time to break in the Ferodos.  Anyhow, I need to change out
the brake fluid (it’s still the original 6 year old stuff) and it’s
pretty well gunked up.  The result is a spongy pedal.  The ?
is…what’s the best method to clear out the system & get some new
fluid in there?  I’ve heard that the method/device used by some shops
could blow out your mastercylinder seals, or something to that effect.
Any input?

TIA,

TR

I was at the VW dealership this morning to have some repairs done on
my 95 GTI VR6.  One of the service guys told me that VW has sold the
VR6 engine to Mercedes Benz for use in their new sport utility
vehicle.  He said that VW plans to use "less powerful" Audi six
cilynder engines.
Has anybody heard anything along these lines?

Does anyone know how to fix this problem.  None of the exaust mount
things are broken and everything else looks fine.  When I punch the gas
it starts to hit at around 3000 RPM.  Now I think this is making the
engine loose power, because the knock sensor thinks that the engine is
knockin, but it is really the swaybar.  Can I just take it off?

–
Super-User

Does anyone know if a 5 speed trans from a Jetta be put into a ’77
Scirocco?  Does it bolt right in?  I’m not sure what year the trans is,
but it is an older one.  If anyone has tried to put a five speed into a
rabbit or something could they please let me know what is involved?  A
speedy reply will be greatly appreciated! (If the trans can’t be swapped,
are any other models interchangeable?  Later Scirocco?)

Thanx.
—
BLAIR TEGART                       email: nteg…@freenet.edmonton.ab.ca
EDMONTON, ALBERTA, CANADA

fmous…@cisco.com (Farshid Moussavi) wrote:
>Hi again folks!
>Forgot to mention, I went to the dealer, handed him castrol gtx oil
>and my original vw filter and said change the oil.  I show up in
>the afternoon, and he used his own pennzoil filter, claiming that
>is totally ok and meets spec and not to worry.  I didn’t have time
>to get it replaced.  Does anybody know about this comparison?  This
>dealer uses pennzoil filters and oil on all his oil changes and
>services!  
>Farshid

The pennzoil filter is not as good as the factory one by a long shot.
You may want to switch brands of oil as Castrol has a very high ash
content.

Bob          Shine racing Service

It could be several items, but it really sounds like your cold start valve
is leaking.  At this age, I’ve had to replace several of them for the same
symptoms.  Pull it and check.  If you need more specific advice or want
procedures, please E-mail me.
Mark Rosenkrantz (VW tuner)
Marker…@aol.com

Has anyone noticed cold start exhaust "clouds" on 93+ 2.0 engines???,  My
95 Sport has a brief period (<10seconds) of very rich exhaust which goes
away completely. This rich condition creates quite a cloud of crap, which
is not blue/oily, but more grey and fuelish.  The car runs fine after/and
when warm.  VW dealer says that some individual cars do that, nothing to
worry about.  As the car is quick enough when warm, I am hesitant to
actually go to a different/possibly more competant dealer….
Comments??????

Hi folks…
Just curious here… what are the symptoms if a VW 8V timing belt
slips a notch or two? Would it be possible for the car to start and run
normally (smoothly), yet at reduced power?
Cheers,
Ken Lawton
Nepean, Ontario
—