Hi
Thanks to those who responded to my problem with my power box tuning module.
I took it back to the shop that sold it to me and they installed a wire from
the battery to some grey wire they pulled out of the harness, apparantly it
makes the unit run leaner – smoking is gone now (with a slight reduction in
overall power from when it was smoking), so now I can recommend PSI tuning
boxes for you TDI’ers who want a little more passing power.
Just come in, passengers door will operate the interior light, but the
drivers door has stopped doing the same. Also, the red light on the
interior door panel and the lights on warning buzzer (pretty essential
when the dark days will soon be upon us)
I know it’s all related to the same thing. I thought in most cars there
was a little button, that could possibly be stuck, but I can’t find one
in this case. OK, it is very dark and I don’t have a brilliant torch.
Please – where will I find it
—
Mike
Please post replies to newsgroup to benefit others
Replace dead spam with ntl world to reply by email
I am having this disagreement with my Dad, who owns a 1985 Jetta. The
steering wheel is not centered while driving straight ahead, being off by 25
degrees or so. My Dad took the steering wheel off the splines and put it
back on so it is mostly straight. I told him the car needs a 4 wheel
alignment as something has happened that has caused the change. Putting the
steering wheel back on in a different place is treating the symptom, not the
problem. It also means the pinion is not centered on the rack. My Dad
maintains the car has been four wheel aligned twice and both times he got it
back, the steering wheel was crooked. He says alignment shops don’t ensure
the steering wheel is centered. I said that is absurd. Centering the
steering wheel is part of the alignment process. My Dad maintains tire wear
is fine and the car handles OK. I have driven it and that is true.
In my opinion, the shop should have centered the steering wheel. I have
never had a shop that did NOT do this as part of an alignment. In addition,
I think the shop should be adjusting the steering wheel by way of alignment
procedures. If that does not do it, then the shop should apply equal turns
of the tie rods ends, with the front wheels locked straight ahead which will
turn the steering wheel one way or the other. I find it incredulous that a
shop would say centering the steering wheel is not part of the alignment
job. Your thoughts?
- Phil
I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T. Upon start up there is a whirling scraping
sound that quits within a minute or so. It come form the passanger side
(turbo) side of the engine compartment. Any ideas as to what that
could be?
WVK
I have a 2001 Jetta with the 2.0 non turbo engine. Recently one of the lights
on the dash came on. OBD pulled the following codes:
P0172- System too rich (bank 1)
P1128 – Upstream O2 Sesor Swapped
About the same time, the gas guage started to work erratic. It reads about 2
lines above where it should be (so when Im at 1/2 a tank, it says I have a
little under 3/4). I’m thinking this could be the MAF or just the upper O2, or
maybe both needs to be replaced.. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions
on where to go from here.
Thanks
Chad
OK, ever since I’ve had this damn car, I’ve had this bad Gas/unburnt exhaust
smell in the car. Always smells, especially when the car is warm, Windows
open or closed, heater fan on or not, high RPM or low RPM….
I’ve tried many things.
Changed exhaust Manifold (old one was cracked), fixed all exhaust leaks,
changed air filter, changed plugs, new 1 wire Oxygen Sensor, etc….
I’ve brought it to a couple of mechanics but no one can figure it out??
I’ve yet to check with VAG-COM, my next step, to see if there is a problem.
My car is a 1997 VW Golf K2, 1.8l, 8v, Canadian model.
Any suggestion would be helpful. I really want to get rid of this problem
cause I pick up my 17 month old everyday from daycare, and I don’t want to
subject her to this harmful odor.
Steve
Hoping anyone can lead me in the right direction. I have a 1997 Jetta gl
2.0L that once in a great while, ( once every 1-2 weeks), will not start
right away. It will usually take 5-6 times and then fire up.
I did a complete tune up 30,000 miles ago and had the fuel filter changed.
However the mechanic put it in backwards so I corrected the direction. Other
than this problem the car runs fine for 140,000 miles on it…
I know this is a vague description of the problem but I was hoping this was
a typical common problem and points to a specific part failure..
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
Joe Orapello
My friend’s 1992 GTI (8v, AT) wouldn’t start the other day. The battery
seemed fine (lights work, stereo works). In trying to start, the engine
made no noise — no solenoid, no starter. Later my friend called a tow
truck and got a jump start, and the car started without problem.
My interpretation of this is that it’s a coincidence — if the battery
were low, then we’d hear the starter ‘try’ to turn the engine over, but
instead we got no starter action whatsoever (nor solenoid).
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?modelid=2877 says that
the starter motor, starter interlock relay, and ECM are common sources of
trouble on this car. It seems to me that the relay or the starter motor
going bad are more consistent with the symptoms observed. Comments?
If it happens again, I’ll take a voltmeter to the starter and that should
differentiate between a bad starter motor and other, upstream problems
(interlock, etc).
Tobin
I have heard and read a lot about a preformance chip for the digifant
II, does anyone know where I can order one for it.
Bat-Man
I’m looking for help in locating a replacement for a missing engine bolt on a 1985 Vanagon G.L.
The bolt is missing just above the right corner of the passenger side, engine valve cover.
Coolant comes directly out of the hole. I have a couple of pictures I could email to anyone that
thinks they may be able to help. The VW dealer can’t seem to figure it out.
my email is jlabillois AT hotmail DOT com i