Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs with
the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this so
I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only had
a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was headed
out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and tested
the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I paid
to get Bosch).
So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before (and
I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have no
AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess not.
So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what does
the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really like
to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why this
is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I don’t
think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
On 7/6/03 9:15, in article be9cgo$2kh3…@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de, "VWGirl"
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
<VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs with
> the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
> driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
> alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
> old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this so
> I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
> barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
> just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only had
> a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was headed
> out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
> out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and tested
> the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
> know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I paid
> to get Bosch).
> So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before (and
> I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have no
> AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess not.
> So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
> Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what does
> the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really like
> to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why this
> is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I don’t
> think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Four bad alternators in a row? Or a problem in the car? I’m going to say
that it’s something in the car.
As always, check and clean battery connections and all ground wires. A
friend had some very strange electrical problems in a Cabriolet that all
came down to a broken ground.
You could have a wire shorting out somewhere, or it could be a relay. If
you’ve noticed any abnormal clicking from the relay panel, that would be a
great place to start. I had a fuel pump relay that was shorting out
intermittently. When it was shorted it acted like a dead battery. I was
driving once with it clicking on and off and most if not all of the dash
lights were doing strange things. The dash lights aren’t necessarily relay
related, just that any short can have strange effects on the rest of the
system.
You might be able to narrow it down by removing non-essential relays and
fuses. Beyond that, it’s get out the multi-meter and start testing.
Good luck!
I can clear up on mystery here. VW connected the OXS light to the
battery light through a diode so that the OXS light always comes on when
the battery light comes on (but not vice versa). Presumably this was
done to implement a bulb test function on the OXS light.
As for your real problem, how old is the battery in the car? If the
battery is not up to par, it can take out the voltage regulator in the
alternator.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
VWGirl wrote:
> Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs with
> the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
> driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
> alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
> old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this so
> I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
> barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
> just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only had
> a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was headed
> out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
> out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and tested
> the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
> know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I paid
> to get Bosch).
> So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before (and
> I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have no
> AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess not.
> So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
> Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what does
> the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really like
> to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why this
> is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I don’t
> think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
they are two totally seperate problems though, the first two alternators
were BAD they would only charge at 2V…. maybe my car wore them out to
where they could only charge at 2V? I don’t know how that would happen, but
the two alts were bad…. now the next two on a totally unrelated prob…
were both changed in the same day to replace the last alt that was charging
@2V… they were charging @ 14V, but there was NO amperage and they cause
the battery and oxs light to come on… the other two alts that only charged
@2V did NOT cause the battery or oxs light to come on and maintained the car
at above 12V so I could drive the car like that. I cannot drive the car with
no amperage bacuse when I am sitting at idle or god forbid I try and drive
it at night the battery is going to go dead in a heartbeat…..
"Jason Faas" <jfaasNOS…@neb.rr.com> wrote in message
news:BB2DB81A.B9C5%jfaasNOSPAM@neb.rr.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On 7/6/03 9:15, in article be9cgo$2kh3…@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de,
"VWGirl"
> <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
with
> > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
started
> > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so
an
> > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
the
> > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
so
> > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
was
> > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but
I
> > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
had
> > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
headed
> > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
them
> > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
tested
> > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
don’t
> > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
paid
> > to get Bosch).
> > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
(and
> > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
have no
> > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
not.
> > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
WTF????
> > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
does
> > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
like
> > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
this
> > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
don’t
> > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
> Four bad alternators in a row? Or a problem in the car? I’m going to say
> that it’s something in the car.
> As always, check and clean battery connections and all ground wires. A
> friend had some very strange electrical problems in a Cabriolet that all
> came down to a broken ground.
> You could have a wire shorting out somewhere, or it could be a relay. If
> you’ve noticed any abnormal clicking from the relay panel, that would be a
> great place to start. I had a fuel pump relay that was shorting out
> intermittently. When it was shorted it acted like a dead battery. I was
> driving once with it clicking on and off and most if not all of the dash
> lights were doing strange things. The dash lights aren’t necessarily
relay
> related, just that any short can have strange effects on the rest of the
> system.
> You might be able to narrow it down by removing non-essential relays and
> fuses. Beyond that, it’s get out the multi-meter and start testing.
> Good luck!
But the battery was fine with the old alternator that was charging at 2V!!!!
All I did was swap out the old alternator with the new alternator and turned
the car on… an then the lights came on! the lights were not on with the
old alt. I don’t see how i could burn out the regulator in ONE second by
turning the car on! it was an immediate difference!
I am confused about Voltage and amperage as I said before.. I always thought
if you had one then you would have the other… I HAVE Voltage! I just have
no amperage! now is the amperage directly related to the voltage regulator?
I have 14V… and 0 amps…
"Randolph" <tr…@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3F08584E.53A35E8F@junkmail.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> I can clear up on mystery here. VW connected the OXS light to the
> battery light through a diode so that the OXS light always comes on when
> the battery light comes on (but not vice versa). Presumably this was
> done to implement a bulb test function on the OXS light.
> As for your real problem, how old is the battery in the car? If the
> battery is not up to par, it can take out the voltage regulator in the
> alternator.
> VWGirl wrote:
> > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
with
> > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
started
> > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so
an
> > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
the
> > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
so
> > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
was
> > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but
I
> > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
had
> > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
headed
> > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
them
> > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
tested
> > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
don’t
> > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
paid
> > to get Bosch).
> > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
(and
> > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
have no
> > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
not.
> > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
WTF????
> > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
does
> > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
like
> > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
this
> > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
don’t
> > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi, you should probably check your grounds. Start by removing and
cleaning all points from your negative battery terminal, down to where
it hooks onto the body, next to the tranny or engine block. It only
takes a few minutes and could cure your problem.
Good luck!
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
"VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message <news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de>…
> Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs with
> the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
> driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
> alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
> old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this so
> I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
> barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
> just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only had
> a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was headed
> out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
> out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and tested
> the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
> know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I paid
> to get Bosch).
> So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before (and
> I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have no
> AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess not.
> So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
> Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what does
> the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really like
> to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why this
> is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I don’t
> think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will try that… but don’t see how I could have gotten a bad ground by
replacing an alternator… never have before…
"Pat" <trek800…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:17135293.0307061056.5933dc8@posting.google.com…
> Hi, you should probably check your grounds. Start by removing and
> cleaning all points from your negative battery terminal, down to where
> it hooks onto the body, next to the tranny or engine block. It only
> takes a few minutes and could cure your problem.
> Good luck!
> "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
<news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de>…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
with
> > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
started
> > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so
an
> > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
the
> > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
so
> > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
was
> > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but
I
> > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
had
> > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
headed
> > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
them
> > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
tested
> > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
don’t
> > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
paid
> > to get Bosch).
> > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
(and
> > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
have no
> > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
not.
> > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
WTF????
> > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
does
> > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
like
> > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
this
> > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
don’t
> > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Make sure there is water in all the battery compartments and there are no
hair line cracks in it. Had a 95′ GTi that did the exact same thing-come to
find out one of the cells had a crack in it overworking and eventually
killing 2 alternators.
cruspeed
"VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:be9pjj$2op2l$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> But the battery was fine with the old alternator that was charging at
2V!!!!
> All I did was swap out the old alternator with the new alternator and
turned
> the car on… an then the lights came on! the lights were not on with the
> old alt. I don’t see how i could burn out the regulator in ONE second by
> turning the car on! it was an immediate difference!
> I am confused about Voltage and amperage as I said before.. I always
thought
> if you had one then you would have the other… I HAVE Voltage! I just
have
> no amperage! now is the amperage directly related to the voltage
regulator?
> I have 14V… and 0 amps…
> "Randolph" <tr…@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3F08584E.53A35E8F@junkmail.com…
> > I can clear up on mystery here. VW connected the OXS light to the
> > battery light through a diode so that the OXS light always comes on when
> > the battery light comes on (but not vice versa). Presumably this was
> > done to implement a bulb test function on the OXS light.
> > As for your real problem, how old is the battery in the car? If the
> > battery is not up to par, it can take out the voltage regulator in the
> > alternator.
> > VWGirl wrote:
> > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
> with
> > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
> started
> > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
so
> an
> > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
new
> > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
> the
> > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
this
> so
> > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
> was
> > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
of
> > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
believe).
> > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
but
> I
> > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
only
> had
> > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
> headed
> > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
> them
> > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> tested
> > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
> don’t
> > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
> paid
> > > to get Bosch).
> > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
> (and
> > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
battery
> > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
> have no
> > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
guess
> not.
> > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
> WTF????
> > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
what
> does
> > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
> like
> > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
why
> this
> > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
> don’t
> > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
battery was fine for the first two alts… but will check that too…
"cruspeed" <crusp…@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:su_Na.238782$jp.6440517@twister.southeast.rr.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Make sure there is water in all the battery compartments and there are no
> hair line cracks in it. Had a 95′ GTi that did the exact same thing-come
to
> find out one of the cells had a crack in it overworking and eventually
> killing 2 alternators.
> cruspeed
> "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:be9pjj$2op2l$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > But the battery was fine with the old alternator that was charging at
> 2V!!!!
> > All I did was swap out the old alternator with the new alternator and
> turned
> > the car on… an then the lights came on! the lights were not on with
the
> > old alt. I don’t see how i could burn out the regulator in ONE second by
> > turning the car on! it was an immediate difference!
> > I am confused about Voltage and amperage as I said before.. I always
> thought
> > if you had one then you would have the other… I HAVE Voltage! I just
> have
> > no amperage! now is the amperage directly related to the voltage
> regulator?
> > I have 14V… and 0 amps…
> > "Randolph" <tr…@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:3F08584E.53A35E8F@junkmail.com…
> > > I can clear up on mystery here. VW connected the OXS light to the
> > > battery light through a diode so that the OXS light always comes on
when
> > > the battery light comes on (but not vice versa). Presumably this was
> > > done to implement a bulb test function on the OXS light.
> > > As for your real problem, how old is the battery in the car? If the
> > > battery is not up to par, it can take out the voltage regulator in the
> > > alternator.
> > > VWGirl wrote:
> > > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging
probs
> > with
> > > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
> > started
> > > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
> so
> > an
> > > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
> new
> > > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well
as
> > the
> > > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
> this
> > so
> > > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the
car
> > was
> > > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
> of
> > > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
> believe).
> > > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
> but
> > I
> > > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
> only
> > had
> > > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I
was
> > headed
> > > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
> > them
> > > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> > tested
> > > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
> > don’t
> > > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what
I
> > paid
> > > > to get Bosch).
> > > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times
before
> > (and
> > > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to
be
> > > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
> battery
> > > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
> > have no
> > > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
> guess
> > not.
> > > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
> > WTF????
> > > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
> what
> > does
> > > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would
really
> > like
> > > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
> why
> > this
> > > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage?
I
> > don’t
> > > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do
I
> > > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
whoops! I hit reply, instead of reply to group. Sorry VWGirl!
One thing that nobody has addressed here so far is the lack of amperage
coming from the alternator. It seems though, that there’s a
misconception…hopefully Ice an clear that up here..
Amps are current. Current is what flows. Volts are, well, volts. They
determine how much electron flow you CAN have…but not how much you will
have. Think of it as a set of pipes in your house. Voltage would be the
water pressure. Even if your running 100 PSI in your pipes (high, I know,
but I’m only using it as illustrative), your not going to have any flow
(amps) until you open a faucet. Once you open a faucet, the water in the
pipes will flow. The combination of the size of the faucet (which would
equate to resistance) and the amount of water pressure you have in the pipes
(the voltage) will determine the amount of water flowing out of the faucet
(the amps).
In short…unless there is something drawing current (another name for
amps), you are not going to show any amperage coming out of the alternator.
If The car is running, and there’s still nothing coming out, then there’s an
issue. But it could also be how your measuring it..
Measuring voltage and current (amps) are done in two different ways.
And alot of people don’t know how to do it properly. Voltage has to be
measured across some sort of load (resistance). Voltage is measured as a
drop, not as an entity all by itself. If you hook a 9 volt battery up to a
small resistance, and measure across that resistance, you may only read 2 or
3 volts. That’s because the load is only dropping 2 or 3 volts…the rest
is "floating around" waiting for something else to take it up. But now, you
may be asking, why can you measure across battery terminals and get the full
12 volts? It’s because there is no current path between the terminals (what
your measuring across) so if you consider the space between the terminals to
be an extremely high resistive load, it is dropping 100% of the voltage.
That’s why you read 12 volts when measuring across the terminals…with
nothing connected.
Now amps on the other hand…cannot be read "across" anything. In order
to correctly read current flow, you MUST have the meter in between two
spots. It MUST be part of the circuit (unlike voltage, where you measure a
drop ACROSS something). If you don’t have the ammeter inside the
circuit…as a part of it, you will not read any current flow at all. If
that’s not clear (which I think it’s really not..sorry), feel free to email
me directly and I’ll do my best to clear it up.
One bit that is confusing me some is where you say it’s only charging at
2 volts. What exactly do you mean, and how did you measure it? If the
alternator is sending 14 volts (as it should) to the battery, the battery is
sucking up 12 of those volts (remember earlier about measuring voltage
drop!). So at the battery you will only read 2 volts coming form the
alternator. This is ok. It’s the current that charges the battery
anyways…not the voltage. The length of time the battery takes to charge
is dependant on the voltage fed into the battery, and the current it
receives, but it’s stillt he current that charges the battery. If it’s a 12
volt battery, it needs at least a 12 volt source to get back up to the 12
volts it’s suppose to hold. But the current is what charges the battery to
it’s capacity. You CAN charge the battery with, say, 7 volts…it’s only
going to charge to 7 volts though. IF the internal voltage of the battery
is already at 7 volts, there will be no charging at all. No current flow=no
charging. That’s why you need more than 12 volts to get a 12 volt battery
back to proper charge.
Sorry it’s so long, but Iw as trying to make it as clear as possible. I
hope this helps you in figuring out what’s going on. Happy to help if you
need any more info.
–Andy P
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
—– Original Message —–
From: "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2003 10:15 AM
Subject: Alternators probs 87 cabriolet HELP!!!
> Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
with
> the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
> driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
> alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
> old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
so
> I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
> barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
> just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
had
> a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
headed
> out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
> out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
tested
> the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
> know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
paid
> to get Bosch).
> So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
(and
> I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have
no
> AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
not.
> So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
> Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
does
> the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
like
> to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
this
> is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
don’t
> think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
"VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
with
> the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
> driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
> alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
> old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
so
> I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
> barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
> just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
had
> a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
headed
> out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
> out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
tested
> the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
> know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
paid
> to get Bosch).
> So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
(and
> I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have
no
> AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
not.
> So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
> Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
does
> the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
like
> to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
this
> is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
don’t
> think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
> In short…unless there is something drawing current (another name for
> amps), you are not going to show any amperage coming out of the
alternator.
> If The car is running, and there’s still nothing coming out, then there’s
an
> issue. But it could also be how your measuring it..
This was a test done at Autozone… go to a local Auto parts store and ask
them to check your battery… this is what we did…
> One bit that is confusing me some is where you say it’s only charging
at
> 2 volts. What exactly do you mean, and how did you measure it?
The Voltage on the car read 12V… when I took the alternator off the car
and tested the alternator it had a maximum output of 2V… don’t ask me how
that works… I just know what I saw…
If the
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> alternator is sending 14 volts (as it should) to the battery, the battery
is
> sucking up 12 of those volts (remember earlier about measuring voltage
> drop!). So at the battery you will only read 2 volts coming form the
> alternator. This is ok. It’s the current that charges the battery
> anyways…not the voltage. The length of time the battery takes to charge
> is dependant on the voltage fed into the battery, and the current it
> receives, but it’s stillt he current that charges the battery. If it’s a
12
> volt battery, it needs at least a 12 volt source to get back up to the 12
> volts it’s suppose to hold. But the current is what charges the battery
to
> it’s capacity. You CAN charge the battery with, say, 7 volts…it’s only
> going to charge to 7 volts though. IF the internal voltage of the battery
> is already at 7 volts, there will be no charging at all. No current
flow=no
> charging. That’s why you need more than 12 volts to get a 12 volt battery
> back to proper charge.
> Sorry it’s so long, but Iw as trying to make it as clear as possible.
I
> hope this helps you in figuring out what’s going on. Happy to help if you
> need any more info.
I am still confused, and so is everyone else that has looked at this car
I don’t want to take it somewhere cause electrical pobs cost big bucks to 
fix and I am broke right now since I took a week unpaid vacation
Make sure you have a good ground wire between alt housing and engine.
Unless your battery is in backwards, a tested good alternator should still
be good when you bolt it in the car and connect wires properly. About prior
alt testing… I had an alternator on my old 82 rabbit that would either
charge fine, or would intermittently jump to 17.5 volts (that makes the
headlights nice and bright, but also lugs the engine down worse than an ac
compressor). When I brought it in to be tested, the result was "not
charging at all". Go figure, because I was reading the voltage while
driving the car. But I stood there while the guy bench tested it also and
saw it had died. So it died during the removal, transport, or on the bench.
Just as well because I wondered how long (minutes to hours) it would take to
jump up anyway! New voltage regulator fixed it up fine. So forget the
history of tests to other alternators. Your fully charged 12 volt battery
stands at about 13.5 volts all by itself. Don’t worry about current unless
you think something is draining your battery faster than a good alt can
charge it (not likely). When the alt is charging, voltage should climb to
between 14 and 15. If you read this much voltage across the battery
terminals, and the connection to the battery is good, current is flowing
(backwards) into the battery and it’s charging (if the battery is good).
Simple enough.
Now about that charge light. Also known as an idiot light. Probably
because if it’s not lit doesn’t mean your battery is charging for sure. Or
maybe that comes from the idiot who saw it had been on for a long time, but
has no clue why their car won’t start now. ; ) But when it’s lit, current
is supposed to be flowing through it to the alternator’s field circuit. It
needs this to make the magnet part to…well… get the process going from
stopped. One possiblility is a short to ground between that light and the
alternator so current isn’t reaching the field windings. Usually though, it
stays lit because the alt just fails to charge and provide it’s own field
current. And if it works on the bench, then the problem IS your car…
broken or shorted wire. Also, according to my 1984 wiring diagram, the oil
pressure control unit is also connected to the circuit between charge light
and alternator. Don’t know if maybe a problem there could cause alt to not
receive the field current. My bet though is lack of ground or bad
connection regarding the other 3 wires.
Where would I add a ground wire? and why would I do so if it wasn’t equipped
with one in the beginning? just to verify a good ground?
The voltage coming from the alt is fine while driving down the road… but i
get no amperage at all… VERY VERY strange… and since i broke the alt
belt on my rabbit that i have been driving… i think i gotta drive the
cabriolet tomorrow like this
"In2hoppn" <in2ho…@worldpath.net> wrote in message
news:taCdnYy9eNY3lZGiXTWJhA@metrocast.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Make sure you have a good ground wire between alt housing and engine.
> Unless your battery is in backwards, a tested good alternator should still
> be good when you bolt it in the car and connect wires properly. About
prior
> alt testing… I had an alternator on my old 82 rabbit that would either
> charge fine, or would intermittently jump to 17.5 volts (that makes the
> headlights nice and bright, but also lugs the engine down worse than an ac
> compressor). When I brought it in to be tested, the result was "not
> charging at all". Go figure, because I was reading the voltage while
> driving the car. But I stood there while the guy bench tested it also and
> saw it had died. So it died during the removal, transport, or on the
bench.
> Just as well because I wondered how long (minutes to hours) it would take
to
> jump up anyway! New voltage regulator fixed it up fine. So forget the
> history of tests to other alternators. Your fully charged 12 volt battery
> stands at about 13.5 volts all by itself. Don’t worry about current
unless
> you think something is draining your battery faster than a good alt can
> charge it (not likely). When the alt is charging, voltage should climb to
> between 14 and 15. If you read this much voltage across the battery
> terminals, and the connection to the battery is good, current is flowing
> (backwards) into the battery and it’s charging (if the battery is good).
> Simple enough.
> Now about that charge light. Also known as an idiot light. Probably
> because if it’s not lit doesn’t mean your battery is charging for sure.
Or
> maybe that comes from the idiot who saw it had been on for a long time,
but
> has no clue why their car won’t start now. ; ) But when it’s lit, current
> is supposed to be flowing through it to the alternator’s field circuit.
It
> needs this to make the magnet part to…well… get the process going from
> stopped. One possiblility is a short to ground between that light and the
> alternator so current isn’t reaching the field windings. Usually though,
it
> stays lit because the alt just fails to charge and provide it’s own field
> current. And if it works on the bench, then the problem IS your car…
> broken or shorted wire. Also, according to my 1984 wiring diagram, the
oil
> pressure control unit is also connected to the circuit between charge
light
> and alternator. Don’t know if maybe a problem there could cause alt to
not
> receive the field current. My bet though is lack of ground or bad
> connection regarding the other 3 wires.
So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was convinced
that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85 amps
on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern was
good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my battery/oxy
sens light STILL ON????
"VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
with
> the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
> driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
> alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
> old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
so
> I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
> barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
> just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
had
> a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
headed
> out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
> out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
tested
> the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
> know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
paid
> to get Bosch).
> So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
(and
> I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have
no
> AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
not.
> So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
> Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
does
> the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
like
> to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
this
> is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
don’t
> think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
15 volt out from the alternator is not within spec. What was your setup
when you tested the alternator? How did you test the battery?
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
VWGirl wrote:
> So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was convinced
> that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85 amps
> on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern was
> good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my battery/oxy
> sens light STILL ON????
> "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
> with
> > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and started
> > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so an
> > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as the
> > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
> so
> > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car was
> > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but I
> > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
> had
> > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
> headed
> > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping them
> > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> tested
> > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI don’t
> > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
> paid
> > to get Bosch).
> > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
> (and
> > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I have
> no
> > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
> not.
> > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal! WTF????
> > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
> does
> > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
> like
> > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
> this
> > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
> don’t
> > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, I have a short term fix that seems to help. I had my scirocco running
at 12V with the car running and would cause the car to misfire. So, I took a
thick gauge wire and put two car stereo o-ring type clamps attached to each
side of the wire and put one connected to the alternator and the other end I
grounded on frame of the car. This has upped my Voltage by 1 so it is now
running at 13V which is sufficent for now. This quick fix really does help.
Give it a try.
"Randolph" <tr…@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3F0E1C52.79419A8F@junkmail.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> 15 volt out from the alternator is not within spec. What was your setup
> when you tested the alternator? How did you test the battery?
> VWGirl wrote:
> > So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
convinced
> > that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85
amps
> > on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern
was
> > good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my
battery/oxy
> > sens light STILL ON????
> > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
> > with
> > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
started
> > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
so an
> > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
new
> > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
the
> > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
this
> > so
> > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
was
> > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
of
> > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
believe).
> > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
but I
> > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
only
> > had
> > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
> > headed
> > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
them
> > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> > tested
> > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
don’t
> > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
> > paid
> > > to get Bosch).
> > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
> > (and
> > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
battery
> > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
have
> > no
> > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
guess
> > not.
> > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
WTF????
> > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
what
> > does
> > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
> > like
> > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
why
> > this
> > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
> > don’t
> > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
I tested the alt by pressing the "charging system test" button and tested
the battery by pressing the "battery test button" using the same tester as i
did before… same tester they have at all FLAPS I believe
what is it supposed to be regulated at? would this be why my battery light
is on? and is this a prob with the alt or the car????
"Randolph" <tr…@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3F0E1C52.79419A8F@junkmail.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> 15 volt out from the alternator is not within spec. What was your setup
> when you tested the alternator? How did you test the battery?
> VWGirl wrote:
> > So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
convinced
> > that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85
amps
> > on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern
was
> > good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my
battery/oxy
> > sens light STILL ON????
> > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
> > with
> > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
started
> > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
so an
> > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
new
> > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
the
> > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
this
> > so
> > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
was
> > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
of
> > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
believe).
> > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
but I
> > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
only
> > had
> > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
> > headed
> > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
them
> > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> > tested
> > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
don’t
> > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
> > paid
> > > to get Bosch).
> > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
> > (and
> > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
battery
> > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
have
> > no
> > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
guess
> > not.
> > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
WTF????
> > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
what
> > does
> > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
> > like
> > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
why
> > this
> > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
> > don’t
> > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am not really sure what you are talking about here or what the o ring type
clamps are…. but I have 14V(seems to stay fairly constant now even with
the car at idle with accessories on) … I don’t need more… I just need my
battery light to go off!
"PJ4LIFE" <t…@home.com> wrote in message
news:belogo$nik$1@news.btv.ibm.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Well, I have a short term fix that seems to help. I had my scirocco
running
> at 12V with the car running and would cause the car to misfire. So, I took
a
> thick gauge wire and put two car stereo o-ring type clamps attached to
each
> side of the wire and put one connected to the alternator and the other end
I
> grounded on frame of the car. This has upped my Voltage by 1 so it is now
> running at 13V which is sufficent for now. This quick fix really does
help.
> Give it a try.
> "Randolph" <tr…@junkmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3F0E1C52.79419A8F@junkmail.com…
> > 15 volt out from the alternator is not within spec. What was your setup
> > when you tested the alternator? How did you test the battery?
> > VWGirl wrote:
> > > So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
> convinced
> > > that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85
> amps
> > > on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern
> was
> > > good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my
> battery/oxy
> > > sens light STILL ON????
> > > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging
probs
> > > with
> > > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
> started
> > > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
> so an
> > > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
> new
> > > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well
as
> the
> > > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
> this
> > > so
> > > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the
car
> was
> > > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
> of
> > > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
> believe).
> > > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
> but I
> > > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
> only
> > > had
> > > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I
was
> > > headed
> > > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
> them
> > > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> > > tested
> > > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
> don’t
> > > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what
I
> > > paid
> > > > to get Bosch).
> > > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times
before
> > > (and
> > > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to
be
> > > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
> battery
> > > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
> have
> > > no
> > > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
> guess
> > > not.
> > > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
> WTF????
> > > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
> what
> > > does
> > > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would
really
> > > like
> > > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
> why
> > > this
> > > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage?
I
> > > don’t
> > > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do
I
> > > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
Is that gonna fry my battery???
"Randolph" <tr…@junkmail.com> wrote in message
news:3F0E1C52.79419A8F@junkmail.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> 15 volt out from the alternator is not within spec. What was your setup
> when you tested the alternator? How did you test the battery?
> VWGirl wrote:
> > So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
convinced
> > that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85
amps
> > on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern
was
> > good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my
battery/oxy
> > sens light STILL ON????
> > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
> > with
> > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
started
> > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
so an
> > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
new
> > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
the
> > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
this
> > so
> > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
was
> > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
of
> > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
believe).
> > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
but I
> > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
only
> > had
> > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
> > headed
> > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
them
> > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> > tested
> > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
don’t
> > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
> > paid
> > > to get Bosch).
> > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
> > (and
> > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
battery
> > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
have
> > no
> > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
guess
> > not.
> > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
WTF????
> > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
what
> > does
> > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
> > like
> > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
why
> > this
> > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
> > don’t
> > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
VWGirl schrieb:
> So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was convinced
> that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85 amps
> on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern was
> good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my battery/oxy
> sens light STILL ON????
Did you measure the 15V directly at the alternator?
did you check if there is a noticeable voltage drop from alternator body
to the ground post of the battery?
Ingo
Comments inserted below…
> Where would I add a ground wire? and why would I do so if it wasn’t
equipped
> with one in the beginning? just to verify a good ground?
Rabbits just a tad ealier than yours had ground wires attached via the type
of connector that is crimped onto the wire and has a hole in it (aka ring
type in other post). One end attached to the small threaded end of one of
the 4 bolts that hold the alternator housing together. You will need to
find a nut to fit if you want to do an add on. The other end tpically under
one of the bottom bracket bolts to engine block (much bigger bolt, needs
bigger connector). You can add a wire to rule out poor connection through
the mounts.
> The voltage coming from the alt is fine while driving down the road… but
i
> get no amperage at all… VERY VERY strange… and since i broke the alt
> belt on my rabbit that i have been driving… i think i gotta drive the
> cabriolet tomorrow like this
This kind of statement begs to be clarified with exactly what was used to
measure this, and exactly how it was connected to exactly what. But see my
comments under your other post…
Ok, I’m gonna make an assumption here. Assume of course that I cringe at
assuming to use the word assume in any circumstance… lets assume that
this "push the button" test equipment gets hooked directly to the alternator
and the battery, but isolates the two. So now the alt is no longer
connected to the car but is like on a bench and your car is only being used
to spin it. Test would seem to indicate that the tester can make the alt
charge, but doesn’t mean you car can. And assuming the tester puts a real
load on it and it was actually drawing an 85 amp load while reading 15V,
that’s sounds like a good alternator to me! Tester can also indicate the
battery is good, but also still doesn’t test the car. The test for the car
is when the alt tests good and the battery tests good, but you still have a
problem with the car. And if your problem is resistance in a circuit that
doesn’t belong there, i.e. a bad ground or other connection, you’ll only get
partial charging ability.
But if your car has 14V all the time AT THE BATTERY when running AND with
lights, wipers, blower motor, AC, radiator fan running,…everything on…
then you don’t have a problem. Otherwise, 14 volts is not really up to
where it should be. Perhaps your idiot light problem is because the mileage
reached the kick-off amount to trigger the OXS light? Try resetting that.
Otherwise, I refer back to my original response regarding wiring problems…
or ground problem. But while you have everything on and running, and if you
have a volt meter handy, it is a good time to check your grounds by looking
for voltage across connections. It’s an "ohms law" thing. With meter set
to read small amount of voltage, probe between (-) post and …(-) post
connector, wire at connector, connector at other end, engine block,
fender,… anywhere you can detect voltage between grounds indicates
resistance. This is better than using the ohms scale to check for
resistance. But it only works if things are turned on.
Also, if this car was a leased vehicle… some of the early contracts had a
clause that basically stated if you failed to pay the electric bill part of
your rental aggrement, they would come and shut your battery off.
: ) Hope your not too frustrated for a laugh…
"VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bel4vl$6f59u$1@ID-72729.news.uni-berlin.de…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
convinced
> that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85
amps
> on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern was
> good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my battery/oxy
> sens light STILL ON????
> "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
> with
> > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
started
> > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car… so
an
> > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a new
> > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
the
> > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on this
> so
> > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
was
> > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple of
> > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I believe).
> > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12, but
I
> > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They only
> had
> > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
> headed
> > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
them
> > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> tested
> > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
don’t
> > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
> paid
> > to get Bosch).
> > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
> (and
> > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the battery
> > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
have
> no
> > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand, guess
> not.
> > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
WTF????
> > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and what
> does
> > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
> like
> > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to why
> this
> > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
> don’t
> > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
they have the OXS light set up to go off at a certain mileage? didn’t know
they did that stuff way back when… and how would you fix it? I thought
that the battery light turned the oxs light on, but the opposite was not
true? in any case it seems like an odd coincidence that this would have
happened without moving the car…
"In2hoppn" <in2ho…@worldpath.net> wrote in message
news:knWdnfHia9nn04yiXTWJjg@metrocast.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Ok, I’m gonna make an assumption here. Assume of course that I cringe at
> assuming to use the word assume in any circumstance… lets assume that
> this "push the button" test equipment gets hooked directly to the
alternator
> and the battery, but isolates the two. So now the alt is no longer
> connected to the car but is like on a bench and your car is only being
used
> to spin it. Test would seem to indicate that the tester can make the alt
> charge, but doesn’t mean you car can. And assuming the tester puts a real
> load on it and it was actually drawing an 85 amp load while reading 15V,
> that’s sounds like a good alternator to me! Tester can also indicate the
> battery is good, but also still doesn’t test the car. The test for the
car
> is when the alt tests good and the battery tests good, but you still have
a
> problem with the car. And if your problem is resistance in a circuit that
> doesn’t belong there, i.e. a bad ground or other connection, you’ll only
get
> partial charging ability.
> But if your car has 14V all the time AT THE BATTERY when running AND with
> lights, wipers, blower motor, AC, radiator fan running,…everything on…
> then you don’t have a problem. Otherwise, 14 volts is not really up to
> where it should be. Perhaps your idiot light problem is because the
mileage
> reached the kick-off amount to trigger the OXS light? Try resetting that.
> Otherwise, I refer back to my original response regarding wiring
problems…
> or ground problem. But while you have everything on and running, and if
you
> have a volt meter handy, it is a good time to check your grounds by
looking
> for voltage across connections. It’s an "ohms law" thing. With meter set
> to read small amount of voltage, probe between (-) post and …(-) post
> connector, wire at connector, connector at other end, engine block,
> fender,… anywhere you can detect voltage between grounds indicates
> resistance. This is better than using the ohms scale to check for
> resistance. But it only works if things are turned on.
> Also, if this car was a leased vehicle… some of the early contracts had
a
> clause that basically stated if you failed to pay the electric bill part
of
> your rental aggrement, they would come and shut your battery off.
> : ) Hope your not too frustrated for a laugh…
> "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bel4vl$6f59u$1@ID-72729.news.uni-berlin.de…
> > So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
> convinced
> > that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85
> amps
> > on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern
was
> > good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my
battery/oxy
> > sens light STILL ON????
> > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging probs
> > with
> > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
> started
> > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
so
> an
> > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
new
> > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well as
> the
> > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
this
> > so
> > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the car
> was
> > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
of
> > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
believe).
> > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
but
> I
> > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
only
> > had
> > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I was
> > headed
> > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
> them
> > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> > tested
> > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
> don’t
> > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what I
> > paid
> > > to get Bosch).
> > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times before
> > (and
> > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to be
> > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
battery
> > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
> have
> > no
> > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
guess
> > not.
> > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
> WTF????
> > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
what
> > does
> > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would really
> > like
> > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
why
> > this
> > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage? I
> > don’t
> > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do I
> > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
The OXS light is connected to a counter box in line with the speedometer
cable. On older CIS-E vehicles, the O2 sensor needed to be replaced every
XXX miles. The OXS light would come on to inform the driver that this
service was required. Trace the speedometer cable back up from the engine
and you will find the counter…..there is a white or brown button that
needs to be pressed in order to turn off the OXS light.
- Peter
"VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bet54d$8o2tk$1@ID-72729.news.uni-berlin.de…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> they have the OXS light set up to go off at a certain mileage? didn’t know
> they did that stuff way back when… and how would you fix it? I thought
> that the battery light turned the oxs light on, but the opposite was not
> true? in any case it seems like an odd coincidence that this would have
> happened without moving the car…
> "In2hoppn" <in2ho…@worldpath.net> wrote in message
> news:knWdnfHia9nn04yiXTWJjg@metrocast.net…
> > Ok, I’m gonna make an assumption here. Assume of course that I cringe
at
> > assuming to use the word assume in any circumstance… lets assume that
> > this "push the button" test equipment gets hooked directly to the
> alternator
> > and the battery, but isolates the two. So now the alt is no longer
> > connected to the car but is like on a bench and your car is only being
> used
> > to spin it. Test would seem to indicate that the tester can make the
alt
> > charge, but doesn’t mean you car can. And assuming the tester puts a
real
> > load on it and it was actually drawing an 85 amp load while reading 15V,
> > that’s sounds like a good alternator to me! Tester can also indicate
the
> > battery is good, but also still doesn’t test the car. The test for the
> car
> > is when the alt tests good and the battery tests good, but you still
have
> a
> > problem with the car. And if your problem is resistance in a circuit
that
> > doesn’t belong there, i.e. a bad ground or other connection, you’ll only
> get
> > partial charging ability.
> > But if your car has 14V all the time AT THE BATTERY when running AND
with
> > lights, wipers, blower motor, AC, radiator fan running,…everything
on…
> > then you don’t have a problem. Otherwise, 14 volts is not really up to
> > where it should be. Perhaps your idiot light problem is because the
> mileage
> > reached the kick-off amount to trigger the OXS light? Try resetting
that.
> > Otherwise, I refer back to my original response regarding wiring
> problems…
> > or ground problem. But while you have everything on and running, and if
> you
> > have a volt meter handy, it is a good time to check your grounds by
> looking
> > for voltage across connections. It’s an "ohms law" thing. With meter
set
> > to read small amount of voltage, probe between (-) post and …(-) post
> > connector, wire at connector, connector at other end, engine block,
> > fender,… anywhere you can detect voltage between grounds indicates
> > resistance. This is better than using the ohms scale to check for
> > resistance. But it only works if things are turned on.
> > Also, if this car was a leased vehicle… some of the early contracts
had
> a
> > clause that basically stated if you failed to pay the electric bill part
> of
> > your rental aggrement, they would come and shut your battery off.
> > : ) Hope your not too frustrated for a laugh…
> > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:bel4vl$6f59u$1@ID-72729.news.uni-berlin.de…
> > > So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
> > convinced
> > > that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got 85
> > amps
> > > on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode pattern
> was
> > > good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my
> battery/oxy
> > > sens light STILL ON????
> > > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging
probs
> > > with
> > > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
> > started
> > > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other car…
> so
> > an
> > > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put a
> new
> > > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well
as
> > the
> > > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine on
> this
> > > so
> > > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the
car
> > was
> > > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a couple
> of
> > > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
> believe).
> > > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above 12,
> but
> > I
> > > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However, They
> only
> > > had
> > > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I
was
> > > headed
> > > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about swapping
> > them
> > > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone and
> > > tested
> > > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on thatI
> > don’t
> > > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and go
> > > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of what
I
> > > paid
> > > > to get Bosch).
> > > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times
before
> > > (and
> > > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked to
be
> > > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
> battery
> > > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car… I
> > have
> > > no
> > > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
> guess
> > > not.
> > > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
> > WTF????
> > > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
> what
> > > does
> > > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would
really
> > > like
> > > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as to
> why
> > > this
> > > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no amperage?
I
> > > don’t
> > > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where do
I
> > > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
still don’t see why it would come on without the car moving (and cause the
battery light to come on as well) unless it had some sort of timer for how
long the engine had been running… and 192XXX is an odd mileage to need it
to be replaced… unless it was replaced at some odd mileage before… which
still wouldnt explain why why the battery and oxs light would come on with
having the car move… it came on after starting the car (not even putting
it in gear) after the alternator installation.
"Peter Cressman" <cressm…@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:MhpQa.1449$eP6.174997@news20.bellglobal.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> The OXS light is connected to a counter box in line with the speedometer
> cable. On older CIS-E vehicles, the O2 sensor needed to be replaced every
> XXX miles. The OXS light would come on to inform the driver that this
> service was required. Trace the speedometer cable back up from the engine
> and you will find the counter…..there is a white or brown button that
> needs to be pressed in order to turn off the OXS light.
> – Peter
> "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bet54d$8o2tk$1@ID-72729.news.uni-berlin.de…
> > they have the OXS light set up to go off at a certain mileage? didn’t
know
> > they did that stuff way back when… and how would you fix it? I thought
> > that the battery light turned the oxs light on, but the opposite was not
> > true? in any case it seems like an odd coincidence that this would have
> > happened without moving the car…
> > "In2hoppn" <in2ho…@worldpath.net> wrote in message
> > news:knWdnfHia9nn04yiXTWJjg@metrocast.net…
> > > Ok, I’m gonna make an assumption here. Assume of course that I cringe
> at
> > > assuming to use the word assume in any circumstance… lets assume
that
> > > this "push the button" test equipment gets hooked directly to the
> > alternator
> > > and the battery, but isolates the two. So now the alt is no longer
> > > connected to the car but is like on a bench and your car is only being
> > used
> > > to spin it. Test would seem to indicate that the tester can make the
> alt
> > > charge, but doesn’t mean you car can. And assuming the tester puts a
> real
> > > load on it and it was actually drawing an 85 amp load while reading
15V,
> > > that’s sounds like a good alternator to me! Tester can also indicate
> the
> > > battery is good, but also still doesn’t test the car. The test for
the
> > car
> > > is when the alt tests good and the battery tests good, but you still
> have
> > a
> > > problem with the car. And if your problem is resistance in a circuit
> that
> > > doesn’t belong there, i.e. a bad ground or other connection, you’ll
only
> > get
> > > partial charging ability.
> > > But if your car has 14V all the time AT THE BATTERY when running AND
> with
> > > lights, wipers, blower motor, AC, radiator fan running,…everything
> on…
> > > then you don’t have a problem. Otherwise, 14 volts is not really up
to
> > > where it should be. Perhaps your idiot light problem is because the
> > mileage
> > > reached the kick-off amount to trigger the OXS light? Try resetting
> that.
> > > Otherwise, I refer back to my original response regarding wiring
> > problems…
> > > or ground problem. But while you have everything on and running, and
if
> > you
> > > have a volt meter handy, it is a good time to check your grounds by
> > looking
> > > for voltage across connections. It’s an "ohms law" thing. With meter
> set
> > > to read small amount of voltage, probe between (-) post and …(-)
post
> > > connector, wire at connector, connector at other end, engine block,
> > > fender,… anywhere you can detect voltage between grounds indicates
> > > resistance. This is better than using the ohms scale to check for
> > > resistance. But it only works if things are turned on.
> > > Also, if this car was a leased vehicle… some of the early contracts
> had
> > a
> > > clause that basically stated if you failed to pay the electric bill
part
> > of
> > > your rental aggrement, they would come and shut your battery off.
> > > : ) Hope your not too frustrated for a laugh…
> > > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:bel4vl$6f59u$1@ID-72729.news.uni-berlin.de…
> > > > So i checked the new new alternnator on the car today cause i was
> > > convinced
> > > > that i just had bad battery… well… battery tested out good, got
85
> > > amps
> > > > on the new alt (90 amp alt) reg voltage was at like 15V, diode
pattern
> > was
> > > > good… car seems to read 14V all the time now… so WTF is my
> > battery/oxy
> > > > sens light STILL ON????
> > > > "VWGirl" <VWLau…@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:be9cgo$2kh33$1@ID-72729.news.dfncis.de…
> > > > > Okay, I bought this car last february (02) and started havinging
> probs
> > > > with
> > > > > the charging system a couple months later… I parked the car and
> > > started
> > > > > driving another car until i blew the head gasket in teh other
car…
> > so
> > > an
> > > > > alternator is easier to change than a head gasket! anyhow… I put
a
> > new
> > > > > alternator in last July and it did not seem to be charging as well
> as
> > > the
> > > > > old one did. I only had about 13V, but the car seemed to do fine
on
> > this
> > > > so
> > > > > I wasn’t worried too much about it… well a month or so later the
> car
> > > was
> > > > > barely getting 12V and left me stranded with a dead battery a
couple
> > of
> > > > > times… so I exchanged the alt (these were both reman Bosch I
> > believe).
> > > > > Eventually that one went down to only charging at a little above
12,
> > but
> > > I
> > > > > just left it alone cause it had not left me stranded. However,
They
> > only
> > > > had
> > > > > a one year warranty on them and it was up this past weekend and I
> was
> > > > headed
> > > > > out of town so I figured I better see what I could do about
swapping
> > > them
> > > > > out. Well, while I had the alt off the car I took it to Autozone
and
> > > > tested
> > > > > the alt… it was only charging at 2V!!! How I ever got by on
thatI
> > > don’t
> > > > > know! I just decided to return the alt and get my money back and
go
> > > > > elsewhere to get an alt (Autozone had their alt’s half price of
what
> I
> > > > paid
> > > > > to get Bosch).
> > > > > So, I install the new alternator like I have done so many times
> before
> > > > (and
> > > > > I tested this one BEFORE I installed it on the car and it looked
to
> be
> > > > > fine). Well, as soon as I turned the car on, I have 14V, but the
> > battery
> > > > > light and OXS light are on! WTF? so I tested the alt on the car…
I
> > > have
> > > > no
> > > > > AMPS… I always thought that Voltage and AMPS went hand in hand,
> > guess
> > > > not.
> > > > > So We determine that alt is bad… so I grab another… SAME deal!
> > > WTF????
> > > > > Why is my battery light and OXS light coming on now with this new
> > > > > alternator? everything is hooked up just like it was before… and
> > what
> > > > does
> > > > > the oxs light even have to do with the charging system? I would
> really
> > > > like
> > > > > to drive this car again SOON… If anyone has any suggestions as
to
> > why
> > > > this
> > > > > is happening PLEASE let me know ASAP!!!! Why do I have no
amperage?
> I
> > > > don’t
> > > > > think it is the alts now, I think it is the car somehow… where
do
> I
> > > > > start… HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!