Well it happened to me, the dreaded broken timing belt with associated
major engine damage. This happened to the new factory timing belt I
installed. The car, ’91 Passat GL, had 51K miles when I replaced the belt
and tensioner. I followed the installation and adjustment procedures in
the Bentley manual and inspected the belt and tension after 100 miles.
After 1 month and 1500 miles the toothed inner portion of the belt
separated from the outer half with about a few inches of teeth ground up.
Here’s my question…genuine VW parts carry a 12mo/12K mile warranty. If a
covered part fails, would any damages resulting from the defective part be
covered also? I purchased the new belt and tensioner from a mail-order CA
VW dealer. They could always come back and say the belt was improperly
installed and it would be my word against theirs. Anyone encounter a
similar situation? I’d be happy with some relief in the form of partial
reimbursement for the parts. I don’t expect any refund of any labor costs
if I take it in for repair.
Has anyone tackled the repair themselves? If so how much time and $$ did
it take?
Thanks in advance.
Larry
Searocko (searo…@aol.com) wrote:
: Well it happened to me, the dreaded broken timing belt with associated
: major engine damage. This happened to the new factory timing belt I
: installed. The car, ’91 Passat GL, had 51K miles when I replaced the belt
: and tensioner. I followed the installation and adjustment procedures in
: the Bentley manual and inspected the belt and tension after 100 miles.
: After 1 month and 1500 miles the toothed inner portion of the belt
: separated from the outer half with about a few inches of teeth ground up.
Same thing happened to my timing belt, but it had some 70k miles on it.
The teeth seperated from the belt, basically stripping off about 10 teeth
in a row.
The head may not need to be polished, but you probably lost a bunch of
valves. In my situation, I lost all 8 intake valves, but the head and
pistons were in perfect shape. That was about 30k miles ago and the
car runs great.
WARNING:
If you take your car to VW they will want to automatically replace the
head with a brand new one ($1000).
Good luck,
Dan
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
In article <43c319$2…@news.gate.net> w…@gate.net (Daniel Wolfson) writes:
: Well it happened to me, the dreaded broken timing belt with associated
: major engine damage.
Same thing happened to my timing belt, but it had some 70k miles on it.
The teeth seperated from the belt, basically stripping off about 10 teeth
in a row.
The head may not need to be polished, but you probably lost a bunch of
valves. In my situation, I lost all 8 intake valves, but the head and
pistons were in perfect shape. That was about 30k miles ago and the
car runs great.
Which VW models crunch the valves when a timing belt breaks???
Years ago I lost the belt on an 84 Rabbit with no valve [or piston
etc] damage. Is it a function of year? Of engine type??
jim
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
In article <JPT.95Sep15160…@telecaster.think.com> j…@telecaster.think.com (James P. Taylor) writes:
>From: j…@telecaster.think.com (James P. Taylor)
>Subject: Which Models destroy valves [wa Broken 16V Timing Belt]
>Date: 15 Sep 1995 20:08:30 GMT
(snip)
>Which VW models crunch the valves when a timing belt breaks???
>Years ago I lost the belt on an 84 Rabbit with no valve [or piston
>etc] damage. Is it a function of year? Of engine type??
>jim
1.8L 16V engines for sure. I think the same applies to 2.0 16V engines.
Chris
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
pi…@cpcug.org (Chris Picot) wrote:
>In article <JPT.95Sep15160…@telecaster.think.com>
j…@telecaster.think.com (James P. Taylor) writes:
>>From: j…@telecaster.think.com (James P. Taylor)
>>Subject: Which Models destroy valves [wa Broken 16V Timing Belt]
>>Date: 15 Sep 1995 20:08:30 GMT
>(snip)
>>Which VW models crunch the valves when a timing belt breaks???
>>Years ago I lost the belt on an 84 Rabbit with no valve [or piston
>>etc] damage. Is it a function of year? Of engine type??
>>jim
>1.8L 16V engines for sure. I think the same applies to 2.0 16V engines.
>Chris
As stated in my "Broken 16V Timing Belt….aargh!!!!!!!!!" post last week,
yes the 2.0 definitely kills valves. Pulled the head the other day and all
8 intakes were crunched
. It’s in the machine shop and hopefully
will get the Passat on the road by this weekend.
I know the early 8 valvers were non-interference engines and have heard
the VR6 are non as well.
Larry
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
On 19 Sep 1995, VWfreak5 wrote:
> >>Which VW models crunch the valves when a timing belt breaks???
> All 16v engines and all diesel engines will destroy valves when the timing
> belt breaks.
Although it is possible to get lucky. I did (with an ’87 GTI 16V).
I’m replacing it early next time! (It stripped teeth at 59K)
Jim
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
I’m looking at a potential job change with a lengthy commute,
so need to give my GTI a bit of attention….
1) Stereo, Anyone ever retrofit the door speaker setup
from later models (they take part of the storage slot)
into an ’87? It looked like it would involve fudging the
plastic slot on to the door panel. I need better sounds
for the commute, so may add a CD changer and amp. Anyone
have any suggestions for not-too-expensive upgrades
(speaker setups, esp.) that worked well for them? Not too
much room to work with.
2) Any suggestions for mid-performance all-season tires
for this winter? I know it’ll take a 195-60-14, just
not sure what’ll be better in snow without totally
hosing the handling.
3) My mechanic suggested KYB gas adjustable struts as
replacements. Any good?
4) The lower frame of the driver’s seat snapped for the
second time since 1987 (I’m ~220) at the point where the
right seatback latch post attached. Argh. I gather these
are a known weak point. Anyone ever come up with a way
to repair this. The part is > $300. Thinking about
Recaros of other seats.
Thanks in advance. Just found the group. Hope these
aren’t FAQs, but I didn’t see a FAQ listing.
Jim Hogan
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
>>Which VW models crunch the valves when a timing belt breaks???
All 16v engines and all diesel engines will destroy valves when the timing
belt breaks.
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
In a previous article, James F. Hogan (j…@u.washington.edu) said:
> I’m looking at a potential job change with a lengthy commute,
> so need to give my GTI a bit of attention….
> 4) The lower frame of the driver’s seat snapped for the
> second time since 1987 (I’m ~220) at the point where the
> right seatback latch post attached. Argh. I gather these
> are a known weak point. Anyone ever come up with a way
> to repair this. The part is > $300. Thinking about
> Recaros of other seats.
On my 1988 GTI 16V, I cut the other side off and ran a piece of thick
aluminum threaded rod across the entire length of the back of the seat,
then threaded the plastic caps over it. Much cheaper than Recaros, and it
never broke again.
-Arthur (1995 GTI VR6, black, 6255 miles, ugly green seats)
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
In a previous article, Searocko (searo…@aol.com) said:
> I know the early 8 valvers were non-interference engines and have heard
> the VR6 are non as well.
The VR6 uses a timing chain, not a belt. Valve damage is not a big
concern, as the chain shouldn’t break like a timing belt. If there’s one
good reason to upgrade to a VR6, this is it……
-Arthur (1995 GTI VR6, black, 6315 miles, no &*$%@!*^ belt!)
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
In article <43pgpl$1…@hearst.cac.psu.edu> Patrick Stadter <pstad…@photon.arl.psu.edu> writes:
> "James F. Hogan" <j…@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>> 2) Any suggestions for mid-performance all-season tires
>> for this winter? I know it’ll take a 195-60-14, just
>> not sure what’ll be better in snow without totally
>> hosing the handling.
> For snow, you are actually better off with a 185/60-14 tire :
> skinny tire => more lb/in^2 on contact => better bite in the snow.
Yes, but a larger diameter tire is also a big win in the snow. A 195/60-14
is nominally 2.1% larger than a 185/60-14, a very significant difference.
This may or may not offset the advantage of the 185 over the 195 in terms
of width.
An even better choice for snow is 175/65-14, if such a size exists. It’s
both narrower and taller than a 185/60-14. And since a 13" wheel will fit
on the car in question (an ’87 GTI 16V), 185/70-13 is also a reasonable
choice, as is 175/70-13 (both very popular sizes).
Of course, the original poster asked for "mid-performance all-season tires",
so he probably doesn’t care only about snow, or he would have asked about
snow tires.
> I’ve used Yokohama AVSU+4′s in the past and was very happy with them in bad
> weather. Plus you can get them for about $63 per which is very reasonable.
The Yoko AVS U+4 is generally regarded as one of the best high-performance
all-season tires in bad weather, particularly in standing water. They won’t
compare to snow tires for snow performance, though.
—
Mark Sirota, System and Network Manager
Greenwich Associates, Greenwich Connecticut
m…@greenwich.com, (203) 625-5060
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:24 pm
m…@greenwich.com (Mark Sirota) wrote:
>In article <43pgpl$1…@hearst.cac.psu.edu> Patrick Stadter <pstad…@photon.arl.psu.edu> writes:
>> "James F. Hogan" <j…@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>>> 2) Any suggestions for mid-performance all-season tires
>>> for this winter? I know it’ll take a 195-60-14, just
>>> not sure what’ll be better in snow without totally
>>> hosing the handling.
<snip>
>Yes, but a larger diameter tire is also a big win in the snow. A 195/60-14
>is nominally 2.1% larger than a 185/60-14, a very significant difference.
>This may or may not offset the advantage of the 185 over the 195 in terms
>of width.
This is a very good point. I didn’t think that the 195/60-14 was a stock size
for the ’87 GTi – 16v, I thought they still used the 185/60-14. ???
<snip>
>Of course, the original poster asked for "mid-performance all-season tires",
>so he probably doesn’t care only about snow, or he would have asked about
>snow tires.
>> I’ve used Yokohama AVSU+4′s in the past and was very happy with them in bad
>> weather. Plus you can get them for about $63 per which is very reasonable.
>The Yoko AVS U+4 is generally regarded as one of the best high-performance
>all-season tires in bad weather, particularly in standing water. They won’t
>compare to snow tires for snow performance, though.
>–
>Mark Sirota, System and Network Manager
The AVSU+4 is definately not a pure snow tire, but it is one of the
best trade-off’s I’ve experienced with respect to dry performance vs snow/rain
handling. They got me and my ’84 GTi through 109” of snow in State College,
PA and through the usual ice storms that MD always gets. In fact, I really
miss
them now, as I comtemplate how I am going to get anywhere this winter on
205/55-
14 Pirelli P600′s. :(
pas
’89 GTi – 16v
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:25 pm
On 27 Sep 1995, Patrick Stadter wrote:
> m…@greenwich.com (Mark Sirota) wrote:
> >In article <43pgpl$1…@hearst.cac.psu.edu> Patrick Stadter <pstad…@photon.arl.psu.edu> writes:
> >> "James F. Hogan" <j…@u.washington.edu> wrote:
> >>> 2) Any suggestions for mid-performance all-season tires
> >>> for this winter? I know it’ll take a 195-60-14, just
> <snip>
> >Yes, but a larger diameter tire is also a big win in the snow. A 195/60-14
> >is nominally 2.1% larger than a 185/60-14, a very significant difference.
[....trimmmmmm...............]
I’m back! I live at sea level in Seattle where we’re only likely
to see snow 2-3 times per winter, and it usually doesn’t stick.
So what I want is a tire that does not provide *too* much of
a performance trade-off but will be of some use in the
occasional ski foray over the Cascade passes. My plan is to
set up the all-seasons on the original wheels (a little beat
up by now) then buy a new set of P600s (or equiv.) on new
wheels next spring. I’m going to stick with 14 inch wheels
for flexibility later on.
I’d be tempted to take the 195/60 over the 185/60 for
possible handling improvement day-to-day even at the
risk of losing some snow performance.
So far, folks have suggested the
1) Yoko AVSU+4 (quoted at $63 here, ~$74 in Tire Rack ad)
2) Toyo Praxis ($93 at les Schwab)
3) Dunlop D60A2 ($65 at the local Goodyear shop)
All of these are H-rated. The Toyo has a higher tread-wear
rating than the Dunlop, but pricier. Can’t tell if the
AVSU+4 is "mud/snow" rated like the others (I have chains,
but they often mandate snow tires in the passes, and
I’d like to have something that will satisfy the cops
without putting on chains every time.)
I have 2 Goodyear ST 195/60-14 (blech!) on the front now and
that size looks like about the largest diameter that would comfortably
fit in the front wells of my GTI (stock suspension).
> >The Yoko AVS U+4 is generally regarded as one of the best high-performance
> >all-season tires in bad weather, particularly in standing water. They won’t
> >compare to snow tires for snow performance, though.
> >–
> >Mark Sirota, System and Network Manager
> The AVSU+4 is definately not a pure snow tire, but it is one of the
> best trade-off’s I’ve experienced with respect to dry performance vs snow/rain
> handling. They got me and my ’84 GTi through 109” of snow in State College,
[snipp.....]
> pas
> ’89 GTi – 16v
Thanks for the comments. I’ll check out the Yokos.
Jim
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Comment by admin — October 31, 2009 @ 3:25 pm