Golf, Jetta, Corrado, Vanagon, new models, etc

Scirocco fuel pump(?)

Hi,
We (my son and I) are new to the Scirocco’s (and VW’s) and bought an 85
Scirocco. It has been running well for about a month but now will not start.
While driving one day it just quite running, quietly. Was coasting, pushed
the gas and . . . nothing. It turns over well and occasionally will fire but
will not start. It appears to not be getting gas. We checked the fuel pump
fuse and it is good, pulled the fuel filter and turned it over – no gas
pumping. We pulled the fuel pump relay from the fuse box, jumpered the
connection, and do not hear the fuel pump run. (There is a pump like buzz ut
it seems to be coming from the engine compartment near the fuel filter.)
When jumpering the circuit for the fuel pump, and touching the fuel pump it
seems to click when engaged but that is it. How can I be certain it is the
fueul pump? Is there something else I could/should check first? One last
item. Chilton’s says there is a fuse on the fuel pump relay, which we could
not find. Howeer, there is a 30 amp fuse alone above all the relays on the
fuse box that is burned. It is not just a burned fuse but the socket is
actually burned. Is this a fuse for the fuel pump relay? Does anyone know
what this may be for?

Thanks for listening and any assistance!
Thanks,
Dana

Comments (8)




8 Responses to “Scirocco fuel pump(?)”

  1. admin says:

    Not really sure about the Scirocco specifically, but to do the "last ditch
    check" to see if the fuel pump is dead is to apply direct 12 volt current to
    the pump terminals.  The pump should have a + and – terminal.  Take 2 leads
    and hook direct from a 12volt battery.  The pump should run when the current
    is applied.  Usually when they are locked up and bad they click but you
    can’t feel it run. When they are good you can feel them run.  Its kinda of a
    humming sound. When you do this test MAKE SURE THE FUEL PUMP IS SAFELY AWAY
    FROM THE FUEL TANK!  I REPEAT MAKE SURE THE FUEL PUMP IS SAFELY AWAY FROM A
    GAS SOURCE.  Some people will tell you the pump shouldn’t be ran without the
    presence of fuel, because fuel is the lubricant, but doing this test for a
    SHORT amount of time (no more than 6-7 seconds) shouldn’t hurt the pump if
    it was good.  Some books will tell you to run lines into a gas can.  I
    prefer NOT to take the risk of explosion.  Sometimes you may be able to
    GENTLY tap the side of pump and you can break lose the vanes that run
    inside.  I have done that before and loosened up some rust that was sucked
    into the pump by accident.  But usually the pump is fired and needs
    replacement.  Check ebay before you run to a parts store and pay big bucks
    for a new one.  As for the fuse issue.  My only comment is, figure out why
    it is burned before just placing a new fuse into it.  There is always a
    reason it burned.  I do have a manual on the Scriocco.  I will try to get
    the fuse panel scanned in for you and sent.  Hope this helps.

    Mac
    66 Notchback "Louie"
    67 Squareback "Edison"
    70 Squareback "Madison"
    90 Cabriolet "Ellie"
    01 Passat "Jules"

    "DC" <woul…@meemail.adr> wrote in message

    news:X5rAa.22583$ek2.302765@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com…

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > Hi,
    > We (my son and I) are new to the Scirocco’s (and VW’s) and bought an 85
    > Scirocco. It has been running well for about a month but now will not
    start.
    > While driving one day it just quite running, quietly. Was coasting, pushed
    > the gas and . . . nothing. It turns over well and occasionally will fire
    but
    > will not start. It appears to not be getting gas. We checked the fuel pump
    > fuse and it is good, pulled the fuel filter and turned it over – no gas
    > pumping. We pulled the fuel pump relay from the fuse box, jumpered the
    > connection, and do not hear the fuel pump run. (There is a pump like buzz
    ut
    > it seems to be coming from the engine compartment near the fuel filter.)
    > When jumpering the circuit for the fuel pump, and touching the fuel pump
    it
    > seems to click when engaged but that is it. How can I be certain it is the
    > fueul pump? Is there something else I could/should check first? One last
    > item. Chilton’s says there is a fuse on the fuel pump relay, which we
    could
    > not find. Howeer, there is a 30 amp fuse alone above all the relays on the
    > fuse box that is burned. It is not just a burned fuse but the socket is
    > actually burned. Is this a fuse for the fuel pump relay? Does anyone know
    > what this may be for?

    > Thanks for listening and any assistance!
    > Thanks,
    > Dana

  2. admin says:

    Yes put a test light or volt meter back at the fuel pump connector. If it
    lights or has voltage then it’s the pump. Also, but some of the old roccos
    had an intank(transfer) pump also. So make sure it’s also working and
    pumping fuel.

    "DC" <woul…@meemail.adr> wrote in message

    news:X5rAa.22583$ek2.302765@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com…

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > Hi,
    > We (my son and I) are new to the Scirocco’s (and VW’s) and bought an 85
    > Scirocco. It has been running well for about a month but now will not
    start.
    > While driving one day it just quite running, quietly. Was coasting, pushed
    > the gas and . . . nothing. It turns over well and occasionally will fire
    but
    > will not start. It appears to not be getting gas. We checked the fuel pump
    > fuse and it is good, pulled the fuel filter and turned it over – no gas
    > pumping. We pulled the fuel pump relay from the fuse box, jumpered the
    > connection, and do not hear the fuel pump run. (There is a pump like buzz
    ut
    > it seems to be coming from the engine compartment near the fuel filter.)
    > When jumpering the circuit for the fuel pump, and touching the fuel pump
    it
    > seems to click when engaged but that is it. How can I be certain it is the
    > fueul pump? Is there something else I could/should check first? One last
    > item. Chilton’s says there is a fuse on the fuel pump relay, which we
    could
    > not find. Howeer, there is a 30 amp fuse alone above all the relays on the
    > fuse box that is burned. It is not just a burned fuse but the socket is
    > actually burned. Is this a fuse for the fuel pump relay? Does anyone know
    > what this may be for?

    > Thanks for listening and any assistance!
    > Thanks,
    > Dana

  3. admin says:

    Ok, of course my scanner is on the fritz.  Here is what the Haynes manual
    lists for fuse locations:

    Fuse No. 1 Radiator Fan   30 Amps
    Fuse No. 2 Brake Lights   10 Amps
    Fuse No. 3 Cigarette Lighter, radio, clock, interior lights, central locking
    10 Amps
    Fuse No. 4 Emergency Flasher 15 Amps
    Fuse No. 5 FUEL PUMP 15 Amps
    Fuse No. 6 Open
    Fuse No. 7 Taillights, side marker lights, left 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 8 Taillights, side marker lights, right 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 9 High Beam, right, high beam indicator 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 10 High Beam, left 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 11 Windshield wiper/washer 15 Amps
    Fuse No. 12 Heated Seats, electric mirrors 15 Amps
    Fuse No. 13 Rear window defogger, heated rear view mirrors, rear wiper 15
    Amps
    Fuse No. 14 Fresh Air Blower, glove box light 20 Amps
    Fuse No. 15 Backup Lights, shift console light 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 16 Horn 15 Amps
    Fuse No. 17 Knock Sensor control unit 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 18 Horn Relay, coolant level and temperature warning light 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 19 Turn Signals, brake warning light 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 20 License Plate Lights 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 21 Low Beam, left 10 Amps
    Fuse No. 22 Low Beam, right 10 Amps

    Relay No. 1 Open
    Relay No. 2 Fuel Pump or Glow Plug
    Relay No. 3 Seat Warning System
    Relay No. 4 Open
    Relay No. 5 A/C
    Relay No. 6 Duel Horn
    Relay No. 7 Open
    Relay No. 8 Load Reduction
    Relay No. 9 Open
    Relay No. 10 Intermittent Wipers
    Relay No. 11 Rear Wiper/Washer
    Relay No. 12 Emergency Flasher
    Relay No. 13 Power Window
    Relay No. 14 Open
    Relay No. 15 Open
    Relay No. 16 Idle Stabilizer
    Relay No. 17 A/C thermofuse
    Relay No. 18 Coolant Level indicator
    Relay No. 19 Power Window
    Relay No. 20 Heated Seat
    Relay No. 21 Heated Seat
    Relay No. 22 Open
    Relay No. 23 Power Window Fuse
    Relay No. 24 Open

    The ONLY 30 Amp Fuse used on the fuse block is for the RADIATOR FAN.  I have
    seen where people use the wrong rated fuse and it causes shorting and
    burning.  Check ALL your fuses and make sure that they are off the right
    AMPERAGE. Some of the older Audis and VWs did have a fuse located on the
    fuel pump relay, but I have used replacements that didn’t have the fuse
    built in.  If you are jumpering the fuel pump relay and still getting
    current at the fuel pump itself the relay is fine and your problem most
    likely lies in the pump itself.  If you can hear the fuel pump click when
    you turn on the ignition the relay is fine.  You can also put your hand on
    the relay when you turn the key on and you can feel it click.  Hope this
    helps.  Welcome to the exciting (and sometimes frustrating) world of VWs.

    Mac

    DC" <woul…@meemail.adr> wrote in message

    news:X5rAa.22583$ek2.302765@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com…

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > Hi,
    > We (my son and I) are new to the Scirocco’s (and VW’s) and bought an 85
    > Scirocco. It has been running well for about a month but now will not
    start.
    > While driving one day it just quite running, quietly. Was coasting, pushed
    > the gas and . . . nothing. It turns over well and occasionally will fire
    but
    > will not start. It appears to not be getting gas. We checked the fuel pump
    > fuse and it is good, pulled the fuel filter and turned it over – no gas
    > pumping. We pulled the fuel pump relay from the fuse box, jumpered the
    > connection, and do not hear the fuel pump run. (There is a pump like buzz
    ut
    > it seems to be coming from the engine compartment near the fuel filter.)
    > When jumpering the circuit for the fuel pump, and touching the fuel pump
    it
    > seems to click when engaged but that is it. How can I be certain it is the
    > fueul pump? Is there something else I could/should check first? One last
    > item. Chilton’s says there is a fuse on the fuel pump relay, which we
    could
    > not find. Howeer, there is a 30 amp fuse alone above all the relays on the
    > fuse box that is burned. It is not just a burned fuse but the socket is
    > actually burned. Is this a fuse for the fuel pump relay? Does anyone know
    > what this may be for?

    > Thanks for listening and any assistance!
    > Thanks,
    > Dana

  4. admin says:

    DC wrote:

    > Hi,
    > We (my son and I) are new to the Scirocco’s (and VW’s) and bought an 85
    > Scirocco.

    <snip>

    > Chilton’s says …

    AAAAAhhhhh!  Get one of these: <http://www.rb.com&gt; You can find lesser
    cost via used on eBay or better yet a local used book store.  Buy a
    Haynes manual to keep it company. The Chilton can be used to chock the
    wheels.   :])

    > Thanks for listening and any assistance!
    > Thanks,
    > Dana

    Some sites for your further education and a welcome and invitation to
    join a larger community:

    <http://www.scirocco.org&gt;
    Consider the email list, lots everyday, maybe just digest mode.)

    <http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=13&gt;

    <http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/cars.html&gt;

    As to the original complaint you should consider the 85 year model and
    beyond used two pumps, one the main is external , the other is a pre or
    transfer pump. It resides inside the tank, accessible via the access
    panel under the rear seat bench. (For safety’s sake be careful around
    gasoline.)

    These transfer pumps seem intended as a safety device: siphoning it out
    the top vs draining it out the bottom looks like an accidental gas spill
    is less likely.

    Nonetheless the transfer pumps seem to fail after many years, esp when
    run on low tank conditions over the long term.

    There  aren’t to many needs for a 30 amp fuse, the pump could be one,
    the radiator fan is another. I am a early Sirocco guy and don’t have Mk2
    specs off the top of my head but as  another poster said you should
    review and renew your electrical contacts as opposed to just replacing
    the fuse.

    hth,
    TBerk

  5. admin says:

    Hi DC,

    First off, listen to TBerk – get a Bentley manual.  DO IT!

    Next, join the Scirocco List @ http://www.scirocco.org   DO IT!

    Now, my little testimony (groans begin)- my first rocco was an ’85 and
    she went 270K+ miles when I decided to just give her to another
    Scirocco maniac as I had rebuilt another one (’87) intended for my
    work vehicle.  Aside from her horrendous paint and some bodywork (and
    a few things here and there) she was in fine shape.  Never once had a
    fuel problem.  Pumps, relay – nothing.  And now I greatly miss her and
    kinda want her back.  Oh well.

    Whereas, with my ‘rebuilt’ ’87 w/ all of 156K on it I’ve done the
    transfer pump and relay.

    Get the Bentley.  DO IT!

    Then use it to diagnose the CIS system and fine Bosch ignition.  These
    cars are very workable and when they run fine they are a delight.
    Can’t say those two things about many cars these days.

    Assuming you’ve rushed out and gotten the Bentley by now (no? DO IT!),
    you have to make absolutely sure the ignition is in proper order.  Use
    their diagnostic directions.  Then once you can rule out ignition
    (assuming, you see), then you can check fuel.  Don’t go backwards.

    Anyhow, whenever you have a no-start condition, flip the ignition to
    the ON position.  If you don’t hear the tranfer pump under the
    backseat and the pump under the car (open the door if you must), then
    you have to check the relay (and the fuse).  Get another relay (you
    can get them from parts4vws.com or germanautoparts.com for around $20
    – dealer wants $60!) and always keep this good relay in the glove box.
     To me, it’s not expensive, it’s a full, working relay and it’s easy
    to drop in.

    OK, that’s my two cents.  Come back when you’ve done the essentials.
    Watch your battery and make sure it doesn’t get too low on juice!
    You’d be surprised how a semi-drained battery can screw up diagnosis.

    Got the Bentley yet?

    -Phil Kerschner

  6. admin says:

    Sorry I haven’t been back for a while, but I have read all the suggestions.
    Thanks! I will work through the issue as Phil suggest. Of course, only after
    I get the Bentley manual (no – I didn’t get it yet. Gimme a break!). The car
    is stuck about 30 miles away so I probably won’t be able to work on it again
    until this weekend. I’ll let everyone know what I find.

    DC

    "Phil Boeye" <philbo…@yahoo.com> wrote in message

    news:a93bfddc.0305281322.11141b7d@posting.google.com…

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > Hi DC,

    > First off, listen to TBerk – get a Bentley manual.  DO IT!

    > Next, join the Scirocco List @ http://www.scirocco.org   DO IT!

    > Now, my little testimony (groans begin)- my first rocco was an ’85 and
    > she went 270K+ miles when I decided to just give her to another
    > Scirocco maniac as I had rebuilt another one (’87) intended for my
    > work vehicle.  Aside from her horrendous paint and some bodywork (and
    > a few things here and there) she was in fine shape.  Never once had a
    > fuel problem.  Pumps, relay – nothing.  And now I greatly miss her and
    > kinda want her back.  Oh well.

    > Whereas, with my ‘rebuilt’ ’87 w/ all of 156K on it I’ve done the
    > transfer pump and relay.

    > Get the Bentley.  DO IT!

    > Then use it to diagnose the CIS system and fine Bosch ignition.  These
    > cars are very workable and when they run fine they are a delight.
    > Can’t say those two things about many cars these days.

    > Assuming you’ve rushed out and gotten the Bentley by now (no? DO IT!),
    > you have to make absolutely sure the ignition is in proper order.  Use
    > their diagnostic directions.  Then once you can rule out ignition
    > (assuming, you see), then you can check fuel.  Don’t go backwards.

    > Anyhow, whenever you have a no-start condition, flip the ignition to
    > the ON position.  If you don’t hear the tranfer pump under the
    > backseat and the pump under the car (open the door if you must), then
    > you have to check the relay (and the fuse).  Get another relay (you
    > can get them from parts4vws.com or germanautoparts.com for around $20
    > – dealer wants $60!) and always keep this good relay in the glove box.
    >  To me, it’s not expensive, it’s a full, working relay and it’s easy
    > to drop in.

    > OK, that’s my two cents.  Come back when you’ve done the essentials.
    > Watch your battery and make sure it doesn’t get too low on juice!
    > You’d be surprised how a semi-drained battery can screw up diagnosis.

    > Got the Bentley yet?

    > -Phil Kerschner

  7. admin says:

    I assume you mean the Bentley Service Manual that lists for about 55.00 on
    http://www.pb.com and not the archived Microfiche, right? I see a couple of them on
    ebay right now.

    "Phil Boeye" <philbo…@yahoo.com> wrote in message

    news:a93bfddc.0305281322.11141b7d@posting.google.com…

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > Hi DC,

    > First off, listen to TBerk – get a Bentley manual.  DO IT!

    > Next, join the Scirocco List @ http://www.scirocco.org   DO IT!

    > Now, my little testimony (groans begin)- my first rocco was an ’85 and
    > she went 270K+ miles when I decided to just give her to another
    > Scirocco maniac as I had rebuilt another one (’87) intended for my
    > work vehicle.  Aside from her horrendous paint and some bodywork (and
    > a few things here and there) she was in fine shape.  Never once had a
    > fuel problem.  Pumps, relay – nothing.  And now I greatly miss her and
    > kinda want her back.  Oh well.

    > Whereas, with my ‘rebuilt’ ’87 w/ all of 156K on it I’ve done the
    > transfer pump and relay.

    > Get the Bentley.  DO IT!

    > Then use it to diagnose the CIS system and fine Bosch ignition.  These
    > cars are very workable and when they run fine they are a delight.
    > Can’t say those two things about many cars these days.

    > Assuming you’ve rushed out and gotten the Bentley by now (no? DO IT!),
    > you have to make absolutely sure the ignition is in proper order.  Use
    > their diagnostic directions.  Then once you can rule out ignition
    > (assuming, you see), then you can check fuel.  Don’t go backwards.

    > Anyhow, whenever you have a no-start condition, flip the ignition to
    > the ON position.  If you don’t hear the tranfer pump under the
    > backseat and the pump under the car (open the door if you must), then
    > you have to check the relay (and the fuse).  Get another relay (you
    > can get them from parts4vws.com or germanautoparts.com for around $20
    > – dealer wants $60!) and always keep this good relay in the glove box.
    >  To me, it’s not expensive, it’s a full, working relay and it’s easy
    > to drop in.

    > OK, that’s my two cents.  Come back when you’ve done the essentials.
    > Watch your battery and make sure it doesn’t get too low on juice!
    > You’d be surprised how a semi-drained battery can screw up diagnosis.

    > Got the Bentley yet?

    > -Phil Kerschner

  8. admin says:

    Correct, but you can get it for at least $20 less if you contact some
    of the websites I mentioned.  Also, go to http://www.scirocco.org/links for a
    ton of Scirocco links, including parts suppliers.

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > I assume you mean the Bentley Service Manual that lists for about 55.00 on
    > http://www.pb.com and not the archived Microfiche, right? I see a couple of them on
    > ebay right now.

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